There is more to Turkish food than the doner kebab, and this Upper East Side Turkish festival of flavor showcases this very fact.

Located on the corner of 3rd Avenue and 81st street, the restaurant has the good luck of two floors and much terrace space, and in nice weather the place is packed. The decorated tile-top tables set in honey-colored wood evoke the feeling of the Beyoglu, an upscale district of Istanbul where spectacular views of the Golden Horn can be had. Here, one makes do with a view of 3rd Avenue. But never mind – you can a nice, light meze and a glass of wine before heading to a movie or home to Netflix.

A welcoming host is always on hand, no matter how frenetic the dining room and how much the locals live up to their reputation for complaining. The ambience here mitigates some of the hard-edges of the neighborhood. The serving plates are trimmed in a stunning blue, and while this Mediterranean color is everywhere, amber and orange add warmth and sophistication to what could easily cross over into the realm of kitsch. Added to this is an extremely hospital staff, if sometimes overwhelmed. The best tables are those that sit halfway-in, halfway-out, allowing diners to gaze outside while keeping jostling and some of the loud conversational buzz to a minimum.

The menu contains a solid list of meze, those eastern Mediterranean versions of tapas, often limited to hummus and babaganouj or perhaps tarama (fish roe spread). At Beyoglu, there are many more to try. Among the best are the sardalya (grilled sardines wrapped in grape leaves), karides izgara (grilled shrimp), cacik (yogurt and cucumber spread), ezme (a spicy red sauce) and the usual array of eggplant, tomato and other salads. Meze choices come with a loaf of round bread, perfect for sopping up the olive oil and the sauces.

Entrees include the requisite kebab, but there are those that you will not find at the corner kebab stand, such a grilled swordfish, or sea bass. What we would like to see is a more traditional Aegean-style fish, such as barbounia prepared with chopped tomatoes and parsley and steamed “papillon” style.

Dessert include the typical Mediterranean baklava-style sweets, rice pudding and a few more daring chocolate items. A glass of traditional Turkish chai is a must-have after dinner.

A real surprise are the two selections of Turkish wine, a product only recently exported. The Turkish wine-making regions are mostly on the north Aegean coast and islands, and the wines are similar to those found elsewhere in the Balkans.