By Jove, it’s not Thai or Japanese! Grand Street has undergone a Renaissance over the last few years, its dimly lit and dilapidated store fronts replaced by innovative eateries, galleries and stores. The requisite Williamsburg sushi spot, pizzeria and trattoria dot the street, along with a few bars that cater to newly arrived. But what makes Grand Street really interesting is the addition of Dokebi Bar and Grill, combining the local Willy B vibe with the tasty offerings of Korea Town.
Welcome to Chul’s Place The interior is playfully controlled, from the muted geometry of the floor tiles to the deep red of the grill tables and banquettes. Large, street-facing windows open up the room; a raw brick wall faces it lime green alter ego. Warm light cascades onto table tops. Several people crowd happily around a grill. Owner Chul and Parson’s students Tan and Axelson-Chidsey have created a space with room to breath, and room to share a meal.
Chefs Kim and Bahk The traditional menu features standard appetizers such gyoza (dumplings), pajeon (scallion pancake), japchae (cellophane noodles) and edamame (steamed soy beans). A real treat is the steamed squid, served in a bamboo steamer with a side of tangy chili sauce. Bibimbap (meat and rice), bokumbap (stir fry) and tempura are options, but for something special try one of Chef Bahk’s stews, such as the kalbi tang (short rib stew). The real attraction here is the table grill, especially the steaming shabu shabu, an assortment of vegetables (including three kinds of mushrooms!) and thinly slice beef steamed in a water bath rather than grilled - perfect for a wintry day. A nice of array of Chef Kim’s side dishes and sauces appear with each entrée, including the famous kimchi (spicy pickled cabbage).
Suggestions Order the kalbi grill first, then follow up with the shabu shabu. Don’t be afraid to ask the friendly staff for assistance. First time grillers may need a little coaching. The sauces are fun to explore – ask about them.
Saki, the New White Wine Dokebi has a notable saki and soju list. Ask about pairing a selection with your meal. Like wine, saki has a variety of qualities that can greatly enhance a meal. Afficionados will be happy here.
The Bar Down the hall and past the kitchen is a full service bar, decorated with totemic art and a fair amount of laid-back pulchritude. Great place to wait for a grill table if the dining room is full. A separate entrance on North 1st Street allows the bar to stay open later than the dining room.